Archived 2013-12-08
This page has been archived and some links may not work correctly anymore. No updates of this page will be done anymore.

See also: Tutorial: Disassembly of a 200LX (disassembly of a 95LX is very similar, but be careful, as some details are different)

Arne Christensen provided a tutorial for a do-it-yourself RAM upgrade for a 512kB 95LX. Here it is:

Do-It-Yourself HP95LX RAM Upgrade
=================================

Some time ago upgraded my HP95LX from 0.5 Mb of RAM to 1.0
Mb with the good help of a friend who is an electronics
engineer. This is the story of why, why not, what, and how.


Why?
----

It should be clear enough why I wanted to extend the memory
of my 95: More RAM disk, room for executing larger programs.

Having this need, I immediately ran into two problems with
the regular HP upgrade program in Denmark, where I reside:
First, it was VERY expensive, in the vincinity of US$400
after sales tax was added, and secondly, they flatly refused
to upgrade my HP95LX because it was not the international
model that they sell in Denmark (I had imported it myself
from the USA).

When I heard from the chairman of the Danish HP user's
group that it was possible to do the upgrade yourself, I
talked to my friend. We made it, and here's how!


Why not?
--------

There are reasons why doing this upgrade yourself might not
be the right thing for you:
- You lose your warranty. Not a big deal now, I suppose;
  the warranty expired long ago, right?
- If you ever need to have the machine repaired, you may
  get a larger bill (pure speculation of course). Never
  mind, you save now and may never have the expense.
- You may botch this up and need to have HP repair your
  machine.
    Carefully think about this point. If you know about
  electronics, if you're confident that you can solder a
  surface mount chip, and if you're a bit adventurous, go
  on. Otherwise, I'll recommend that you don't.

In addition to this, there's a bug in the machine that might
affect you. This bug is in the ROM, and is found at least
in the 1.01A ROM version (the version number is shown when
you boot the machine with Ctrl-Alt-Del). I think it is
fixed in some of the newer versions - it certainly is in
the ROM version used in the 1.0 Mb HP95LXs, and I think
this improved ROM is also used in the newest 0.5 Mb HP95LXs.

The symptom of the problem is that if you change the System
RAM / RamDisk ratio (in the Setup utility) and make your
RAM disk too large, your machine will hang if you ever
enter Setup again.

Also, initially, Setup reports RAM disk to be at 14 K and
System RAM at 634 K, which is wrong but amusing.

If you change the ratio to "the same" it will now report
something like 14K/626K (note: the sum is 640) and, in my
experience, become unstable. The same happens if you enlarge
the RAM disk a little (even if you don't enter Setup again).
However, I _may_ have mixed this up with other problems I
had at the time. In any case, I now stick to the default,
as I don't need the extra RAM disk space (I've got a 2Mb
card) and absolutely want a stable machine (as my calendar
etc. is on it).

I'll attempt to explain what's going on. I haven't been
digging myself, but the fellow who gave me the idea of
upgrading the machine myself also explained that the Setup
utility puts some of its variables at a fixed location in
RAM, where they may get overwritten if you resize the RAM
disk. This will make Setup go beserk if activated.

Note that if you leave the ratio as it is initially the
machine works like a dream. I upgraded mine almost a year
ago and I've never had a problem.

- So, think carefully about it and decide whether the 
benefits are greater in your case than the possible
problems. In any case remember that

     YOU decided to do it!
     YOU did it!
     I only told my story!
     I am in NO WAY responsible for any damage or
     consequential problems arising from this
     YOUR fiddling around with your computer!

and,

     I warned you!

But if, in spite of my efforts at discouraging you, you
modify your HP95LX anyway, please mail me and tell me so.
Especially tell me about your experiences with the Setup
utility if you have any other ROM revison than 1.01A.
Thank you.

And now, let's get started with the fun part!


What?
-----

What do you need for doing this upgrade, apart from the
skills I referred to above? Not much:

- A RAM chip. The one that was already in the machine is
  a HM658512LFP-10, so that's what we acquired. From the
  specifications, this is a 524288-word x 8-bit high speed
  pseudo static RAM with a 100 ns access time. It's in a
  32-pin plastic SOP (FP-32D). If you understand all that,
  fine. I don't, but my HP95LX works anyway...

- A fine-pointed soldering iron, and thin solder lead
  (there sure isn't much room in that machine).

- Thin insulated wire. Wire-wrap wire will do fine.

- A single 10 KOhm resistor, small! (It's for pull-up.)

- A magnifying glass. Yes, you need that if you want to
  inspect your solder points. But if you have tried
  soldering surface-mount parts before, you know.

- A copy of the disassembly/assembly instructions that were
  posted in this newsgroup not long ago.


How?
---

1. Backup your HP95LX and take out all the batteries, even
   the backup battery. You don't want to modify a live
   circuit, and the RAM is naturally live until ALL
   batteries are out.

2. Disassemble the machine. You don't need to disassemble
   the display part, since you are not going to do any
   modifications to that one. However, you need to disconnect
   it from the main logic board. Take this board out of
   your machine.

3. Take a good look at the board. Incredible, isn't it?
   It sure is packed. Now, in order to avoid confusion in
   the following, we need to establish some common terms 
   with regard to orientation. The side of the logic board
   we're interested in for the sake of this upgrade is the
   one that faces upwards during (normal) use. Turn the
   board so it has the PCMCIA connector to the left (this is
   the way the board is oriented as I write this on my
   HP95LX). This our "standard" orientation.

4. You now see three slots for ROM/RAM chips close to
   the PCMCIA connector.
     The bottom one is a 0.5 Mb RAM chip - you'll recognize
   the part number. Otherwise, you're having a most 
   interesting case (which basically means that you're
   wholly on your own - good luck, and I'd be interested in
   hearing about it).
     The middle and top slots are for ROM chips. If you're
   lucky, the middle slot contains a 1 Mb ROM and the top
   slot is empty. The ROM is a HN62318B (mine says FC16 in
   addition to that), which is Copyright 1990 by HP. 1990!
     If both slots are occupied, you're less lucky: You've
   got a machine with two 0.5 Mb ROMs and there's no space
   for more RAM. I don't know whether 1) some early machines
   are actually configured like this, or 2) this an example
   of a last-minute change made possible by HP's usual
   over-engineering (providing an extra address bit to each
   ROM slot, thus making possible the exploiting of 1 Mb
   ROMs). Please enlighten me if you encounter a full
   machine!

5. Provided the top ROM slot IS empty, you now know where
   to put your new RAM chip. However, don't just solder it
   in - the slot is wired for a ROM, not a RAM, so you
   need to rewire a little. For those of you that want to
   know, here is the detailed explanation. If you already
   have a hot soldering iron, hurry on to step 5 and go back
   and read this step when curiosity demands.
     First thing to note is that some pins are used
   differently on the ROM and RAM chips:

	pin	ROM		    RAM
	--- -------------   --------------------
	 3	A15		    A14
	31	A18		    A15
	 1      A19		    A18
	29	A14	        Write Enable
	24  Output Enable  Output Enable/Refresh

   The first two lines show how the address bits are in a
   different order on the two chips. This does no harm: as
   long as data can be read using the same address as when
   it was written, things will be fine; don't rewire these
   pins.
     The third and fourth lines show a problem: The RAM chip
   is only half the size, so does not need the highest
   address bit (A19). However, it does need A14 (originating
   from the spot on the logic board under pin 29), which we
   will then wire to pin 1 on the RAM (A18) (swapping around
   address bits still isn't a problem).
     What, then, should pin 29 on the RAM be connected to?
   This Write Enable pin (which the ROM clearly has not much
   use for) must be connected to the corresponding pin
   on the other RAM.
      Likewise, pin 24, which has added functionality on the
   RAM, must be connected to the corresponding pin on the
   other RAM. If you fail to do this, RAM refresh will not
   work properly. The RAM test (invoked via On-Esc)
   will succeed because it accesses the RAM continuously and
   thereby refreshes it sufficiently for it to work. 
   However, if the machine stands idle for more than some
   tens of seconds, you can be sure that the RAM has lost
   its contents, soon causing a crash. (You can tell that
   we did not get this right the first time!)
     Also for reasons of refresh, a pull-up resistor needs
   to be connected between pin 22 (Chip Enable) and pin
   32 (Vcc). This is because the automatic RAM refresh that
   occurs continuously while the machine is off is enabled
   by the combination of Low on pin 24 (Output Enable/Refresh)
   and High on pin 22. Connecting pin 24 to the other RAM
   ensures the correct level for that one, but we must 
   cater for pin 22 ourselves. Using a 10 KOhm resistor
   seems to work, and puts only a small load on the batteries
   (half a mA). You may try with a larger resistor if you
   like, but this one works at least. 
     Finally, one more pin needs to be connected to the 
   corresponding one on the other RAM: Pin 32 (Vcc). The
   reason for this is that the ROM slot is not powered when
   your HP95LX is off, whereas the RAM needs power at all
   times.

6. Solder a piece of wire to the solder point below pin 29.
   It does not need to be very long; it will be connected
   to pin 1 of the new RAM chip. Be careful not to damage
   the "via" close by.

7. Prepare the RAM chip by straigthening out pins 1, 24,
   29 and 32 on the RAM and shortening them slightly. These
   are the ones that will not be soldered to their
   corresponding solder points, but will be connected
   somewhere else.

8. Solder the remaining pins of the RAM. Solder the corners
   first so the chip is fixed before the remaining pins are
   soldered.

9. Connect the free end of the wire from step 6 to pin 1
   of the RAM (which is unconnected until now).

10. Connect pins 24, 29 and 32 to the corresponding pins
   on the other RAM. The wires need to go around the chips,
   not above them, as there simply isn't room for even a
   thin wire there when the machine is reassembled.
   We let the wires for pins 29 and 32 go to the left of
   the three chips, and the wire for pin 24 to the right.
   You may decide another arrangement, but make sure there
   is space for the resistor you will solder in next.

11. Connect the 10 KOhm resistor between pins 22 and 32.
   Take care that the wire you just connected to pin 32
   doesn't fall off. The resistor will cross the wires
   on pins 24 and 29 - beware of shorts!

12. Check all your solder points, if you haven't done so
   already. This is where you need the magnifying glass.
   Pull gently (not too gently) in the wires to ensure that
   the solder points are mechanically stable.

13. As a last point, recheck that you put all the wires in
   the right places, and not on the pin next to the correct
   one! You should end up with something like this (please
   excuse the poor graphics). "RAM" means connect to the
   corresponding pin on the other RAM:

   RAM<--+-----------resistor----------+
         |                             |
      +- |--------+                    |
      |  |        |                    |
      |  |RAM<-\  |              +->RAM|
      |  |      \ |              |     |
      |  |  o  o \o  o  o  o  o  |  o  o  o  o  o  o  o
      |  |  |  |  \  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
      | +----------------------------------------------+
      | |32       29            24    22               |
      | |                                              |
      | |                                              |
      | |)                                             |
      | |                                              | 
      | |                                              |
      | |1                                             |
      | +----------------------------------------------+
      |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |  |
      |  |  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o  o
      |  |
      +--+

14. Now reassemble your HP95LX. Don't just yet press the
   two halves together; the press pins are very fragile and
   don't like being taken apart and reassembled too often.
   With caution you can insert batteries and test the
   machine without assembling it fully. If you have a
   laboratory power supply, use that instead of batteries
   for reasons of mechanical stability (but do put in the
   backup battery).

15. Test the machine. Use On-Esc to run the RAM test
   (notice that now 2 RAM chips are tested rather than
   only one) and all the other self-tests. Try and read
   the files in c:\_dat, and turn off the machine and then
   on again after a minute to see if the RAM is refreshed
   properly in off periods.

16. When you are satisfied, reassemble your HP95LX fully
   and congratulate yourself! And run the tests once again..

17. If anything goes wrong, I'll do what I can to help.
   However, remember that

     YOU decided to do it!
     YOU did it!
     I only told my story!
     I am in NO WAY responsible for any damage or
     consequential problems arising from this
     YOUR fiddling around with your computer!

and,

     I warned you!


Have a good time!


Acknowledgements
----------------

I'd like to say publicly "thank you" to Frederich Schroeder
who first suggested doing the upgrade myself, and to Allan
Pedersen, who helped out a lot and held the soldering iron
in a steady hand. Thanks.

Also I'd like to thank Craig Finseth for making his Freyja
editor available for the rest of us. Had I not been able to
do some serious writing on the road you would never have
had this writeup.


( Copyright (C) 1993 by Arne Christensen. All right reserved.
  Permission is granted to distribute without limitation on
  BBS's and user group newsletters. Distribution in other
  printed form requires the written permission of the author. )

----
Arne Christensen,
Pine Tree Systems ApS, Denmark.
Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.    or    ...!uunet!mcsun!dkuug!pine!arc
Fax: +45 43 71 43 42        Voice: +45 43 71 07 04

Info on this page is up-to-date as of 2021-05-26.

Interesting links:

  • Join the community:
  • Looking for a successor for the HP Palmtop? Have a look at the devices Michael Mrozek offers in his Dragonbox Shop (browse for UMPCs and for the Pandora and Pyra Linux handhelds!) I can personally recommend the Onemix Windows mini notebooks (3rd generation currently). But there are other good options. Once the Pyra is available, that may be a very interesting alternative as well (Linux). The Pyra is developed by Michael Mrozek and his international team of specialists. 

  • If you need repairs, upgrades and spare parts: Please contact Michel Bel (Netherlands, Europe) or Thaddeus Computing (USA).

  • If you need software for your Palmtop, browse the S.U.P.E.R. palmtop software archive. In case the main link on the left does not work, try this mirror: http://mizj.com/

  • Do you like to read my "Palmtop story" that describes how I got into this amazing Palmtop world and what I did in all that time?

 

My service:

HP Palmtop Button

hermocom was one of the last few supporters worldwide for the MS-DOS-based Palmtop PCs made in the 1990s by Hewlett Packard.

These are the HP Palmtop PC models 95LX, 100LX, 200LX, 1000CX and the OmniGo 700LX.
I can mainly help with the 100LX, 200LX and 1000CX models. The other ones you can ask me about, too, but I am not too experienced with them. 

Since my interests have moved on to new topics (e.g. photography and 360° photography / virtual tours), I don't have the time anymore to care much about he HP Palmtops. Also, I don't really have a good use for them anymore. But I still appreciate them as probably the best ultramobile computers, that have been made by now. :) I still have a few of them here for nostalgic reasons, and I even use them occasionally.

 

Until 2014 I also offered:

  • Repair service (worldwide) 
  • RAM upgrades 
  • Speed upgrades 
  • Backlight upgrade kit
  • Spare parts, accessories and special offers

 

Archived 2013-12-08
This page has been archived and some links may not work correctly anymore. No updates of this page will be done anymore.

How to disassemble the HP 100LX, 200LX and 1000CX Palmtop

Introduction:

This page gives you an idea about the steps necessary to get to certain inner parts of the HP 200LX palmtop. Since the hardware is almost identical, this article also applies to the Palmtop models HP 100LX and HP 1000CX.
The steps have to be executed in the order shown here; you cannot take apart the screen without first having to take apart the whole 200LX body, for example.
Do everything very carefully, and be aware that you risk the life of your palmtop, if you take it apart. I will not be responsible if any of the steps described here will damage something, for me this procedure works, and if it doesn´t for you, it is not my fault! Do not do anything described here if you do not feel comfortable with it! It is tricky, and if something goes wrong, you can easily make the palmtop totally unusable.

All data will be lost after the process! So back up everything before you open the palmtop.

The following picture shows how the HP Palmtops are assembled. The picture actually shows a 95LX, but the other models (except the OmniGos) are very similar.

Main part:

Begin with a clean table surface.

You need the palmtop, a credit card, a Torx-6 screw driver and some small ordinary blade screw drivers (not shown on this picture).

First, remove all removable parts (IR / backup battery cover, backup battery with its holder, then the battery door, the main batteries and of course the PCMCIA card, if there is one in the slot).

Remove the four bubber feet using a small blade screw driver or your finger nails.

Remove the four screws under the rubber feet with the Torx-6 screw driver.

If you later want to remove the screen: Remove the two hinge caps now. Open the palmtop so that screen and keyboard have an angle of 90 degrees, then use your thumb nails to apply force behind the hinge caps. It may be necessary to wiggle them a bit:

Close the palmtop again, now we will open the body. You will need the credit card soon. Make sure it is accessable with your right hand. Begin to pry apart the body carefully in the corner where the PCMCIA eject slider is.

Put the palmtop onto the table so that the backup battery side shows down and the PCMCIA slot shows up.
Now take the credit card, stick it a few millimeters into the gap (only a few millimeters!! Not more than necessary, because you would damage the keyboard cable with the following...!) and slide it slowly down through the gap in the direction of the right palmtop side. Stop when it is in the posistion shown in the picture below and lever the two body halves apart at this point. Here is the position where the two halves are kept together with the strongest force, because here is the screen-mainboard connector, which is a pressure contact.

Now the front side of the palmtop body should be open a few millimeters. That was the most difficult part.
But in the range of the battery compartment the body halves still hold stronly together!

Pry them carefully but also forcefully apart exactly where the plus pole of the batteries show to. But seperate them first only for some millimeters, because...

...it may be that the battery contacts still stick in the motherboard battery connectors. You can see this through the gap. If this is the case, use a small screw driver to flip them out. See the right picture: The right one of the mainboard connectors (left and right side of the big yellow capacitor) still holds a battery contact which has to be removed.

Now you can safely separate the two halves.

If the battery contacts had to be manually removed from the motherboard, they are probably not in their right place in the bottom shell anymore. Press them back into their place: The left image shows that the right battery contact is not in place.

Now we can almost remove the motherboard. Only the screen cable has to be detached from the motherboard first. Use a small screw driver to open the connector (left image shows closed, right one the opened connector). When the connector is open, you can easily remove the screen cable.

Now take the mainboard out of the body. It is only lying there, no further screws.

Still not enough? You want to remove or even take apart the screen? ;-) Okay. Here we go:

First, we must separate the screen case from the body. For that purpose, we first have to take out the white screw-like disks in the battery compartment. "Screw" them out by spinning them with a screw driver, no matter in which direction, by exactly 45 degrees. Then you can remove them.
Note that there are one or two grooves on one of the four sides of each white disk. When you reassemble the palmtop, these grooves should point into the same direction as they did before you removed the disks, i.e. towards each other. This is for the screen cable to have the needed space.

Flap up the screen to 90 degrees, then press the hinge tube (the long black tube between the hinges) gently together and pull it away from the body. Again, only a few millimeters first, otherwise you could damage the screen cables. Begin on one side and proceed in the middle, later pressing and pulling on the other side. On the right side the hinge is mounted on the case body with a meetal pin in a hole of the case. This could need some more force to be pulled out, sometimes it's easy. Don't apply brute force. If necessary, push from the other side of the hole with a small tool.

When the tube is separated from the body, gently slide out the orange screen cable through the hole and even more carefully slide the silver ground contact into a position so that you can stick it through its hole out and remove the screen entirely from the body.

Now remove the screen cover from the screen. Lift in in one corner carefully with a small screw driver and begin to pull it off from that corner. Be careful, since you need a lot of force to pull it off.

You will now see four more Torx-6 screws. Remove them. It´s easy.

To separate the two halves of the screen case you need the credit card again. Begin in the upper left corner, take most care in the range of the latch, since the case plastic is very thin there, then pry the halves apart on the bottom side, but stop before you get to the right hinge! Don´t ever take apart the right hinge and take care you do not break anything in the surrounding of the right hinge!! Also take care with the little latch which holds the palmtop closed when it is not in use. It has extremely thin plastic springs which can easily break (the picture below shows a broken latch)..

Try if you can lift up the screen easily on its left side from the flat cable connector. If not, you have to lift it gently using a screw driver. But take care not to damage anything on the circuit board. Now you can bend the two case halves apart and take out the screen. On the right side you will have to lift the screen up from the right hinge, don´t force it into the left direction, but lift it up!

Now you have removed the screen. Do you really want to do more? Take apart the keyboard?? Well, if you are sure...

The keys are held together by a plastic grid, and this grid is mounted on the LX body by many, many little plasic pins. You see these plastic pins from under the keyboard as little black (number pad) and grey (other keys) dots. You will have to push every single pin with a small centre punch or similar out of the hole. Once you have done this, you can lift up the plastic grid with the keys.
You can remove the keyboard cover (where the additional meanings for the keys are printed onto) only in a convenient way before you pushed out the pins. So do it before or never. As with the screen cover, use a small screw driver and begin in one corner. Then pull it off entirely.

Once you have removed the cover and the key grid you will see the different foils involved into the keybaord functionality. I have also removed the contact foil for you (the white thing), which should not be necessary in general, and the following picture shows all keyboard components in the order of appearence from the top down (on the picture from left to right):
Keyboard cover, key grid, bubble foil, distance keeper foil, contact foil with motherboard connector.

Here are detail pictures of the keyboard components:

And here you see an overview picture of the entire disassembled HP 200LX:

Well, that´s it. Now reassemble everything. You can do it in the exact reverse way you disassembled the LX.
If you are interested in disassembling the screen module for repair or for backlight upgrade, please have a look at my backlight page, especially the instruction sheet describing the upgrade process.

Good luck!

Archived 2013-12-08
This page has been archived and some links may not work correctly anymore. No updates of this page will be done anymore.

Storage cards (PCMCIA SRAM, ATA, CF, SD, MMC etc.) and their compatibility with the HP Palmtops

This article is related to the Palmtops HP 100LX, 200LX and 1000CX, partially to the OmniGo 700LX. The 95LX are mentioned, too, but most of the information is not relevant to that model.

Storage card support (SRAM, ATA Flash, Compact Flash)

You can use SRAM PCMCIA cards or linar flash cards (they are rare and expensive now!) and a lot of ATA Flash or Compact Flash storage cards in your 200LX, that does not exceed the capacity of about 128MB. Some 256 and 512 MB cars work, too.
There are even some 1GB or 2GB CF cards that work in the Palmtop, one user even reported that he used a 4GB card successfully (although it's unclear to me how MS-DOS 5.0 with FAT16 is able to address 4GB of disk space!)
Also, SD cards or MicroSD cards can be used, in conjunction with a suitable PCMCIA adapter. However, not all of those adapters work in the Palmtop. See the compatibility lists further down.

The 100LX is more limited regarding the maximum capacity of a flash / CF card. The Omnigo 700LX and the 1000CX are almost identical to the 200LX, so all cards working in a 200LX should also work in a 700LX and 1000CX. But note that support of larger cards (especially 128MB and above) seems also to be a matter of the BIOS version of the Palmtop. I have seen cards, that don't work in one 200LX, but work in a 200LX with a later BIOS version.

How to make a card work:

If a card doesn´t work instantly, i.e. is not recognized and usable as drive A: by the Palmtop, then try the following steps (and try after each step, if the cad works or not):

    1. execute the built-in fdisk100 utility, which (re-)partitions the card 
    2. do a format a: 
    3. Reformat the card using a Windows computer, choose FAT, FAT12 or FAT16 as the file system (not FAT32!) 
    4. Use a partitioning tool, e.g. a GParted live CD, to make sure that there is only one primary FAT (FAT12, FAT16) partition on the card, and then reformat the partition with FAT12 or FAT16
    5. Put the card into a digital camera and let that camera format the card 
    6. If you have access to a Linux computer: Connect the card to that Linux computer, find out, what device it is assigned to (dmesg usually outputs that information. If the card is attached to the USB port, it is usually something like /dev/sda). Proceed only, if you know exactly, what device your card is assigned to. Uing a wrong device node here may destroy data on another storage device! Then issue the command 
      dd if=/dev/zero of=/dev/??? bs=512 count=1 
      (replace "???" by the correct device name). Afterwards, re-try fdisk100 and format a: on the Palmtop.

No success yet?

Then you probably need the Acecard driver. Install it according to the instructions, reboot the palmtop and repeat the above described procedure. If that does also not help, your card is incompatible with your Palmtop.

Recommended brand: Sandisk!

The most recommended card manufacturer is Sandisk (former Sundisk; some very old cards may be labeled "Sundisk"), Sandisk cards are not the fastest ones, but this is not as important as compatibility, reliability and power economy, which are the greatest advantages of Sandisk cards. If you buy a card, take care that you do not buy one using the new NAND technology (Sandisk's "Ultra CompactFlash" are based on NAND flash for example). They are said to be faster, but they may not work at all in the HP palmtops because of the new technology used.
Simple Technology cards are also frequently used, they are faster than Sandisk, but far more power-hungry.

Get the "Card battery low" message?

Some cards which are not fully compliant to the standards, cause the palmtop to create a "Card battery low" message, which appears in the upper left corner of the screen and blocks palmtop usage until ESC is pressed (just like the main battery low message). If your card otherwise works well, but if you want to get rid of this message, you can use the programm killmsg by Mack Baggette, which is able to suppress BIOS messages. In order to suppress the card battery low message, put the line "killmsg /c" into your autoexec.bat. If you have a doublespeed upgraded palmtop and use Mack Baggette's SPD31 driver, you can use that one to suppress the messages. The command line switch /c does the trick.



Note, however, that the "card battery low" message has a meaning for cards, that actually have a battery! Flash or Compact Flash cards don't have a battery, because the memory technology used in such cards does not need additinal power to keep the data. But the old SRAM cards are based on SRAM (as the name suggests), and that kind of storage needs power to keep the data. Such cards uave either a battery tray with a Lithium battery, or they have an internal rechargeable battery. For such cards, the "card battery low" message is a serious warning, and you should immediately make a backup of the card's data and - if possible - exchange the battery, or recharge it.

Card compatibility list

Here is a list of setups which are tested.
Please note that the last update of the list has been done long ago, in about 2004. Please look carefully if the brand written on the card is really the manufacturer or if it is just relabeled. Sometimes you will find a small "made by Hitachi" in a corner of a card which is largely labeled CASIO or so. Please provide the manufacturer, not the label. To be sure, please put the card into the palmtop and run Stefan Peichl's LXCIC. It tells you in most cases who the real manufacturer is.

A few words about compatibility: In most cases the BIOS version of the palmtop and installed hardware upgrades will not affect the compatibilty of a storage card with the palmtop in any way. However, there are some cases in which e.g. a double speed upgrade prevents usage of a specific card, or where an early BIOS version (1.02A is the latest one installed in 200LX Palmtops) can lead to slight performance problems or even make a card unusable. So I have added BIOS and upgrade information to the list below. Internal memory upgrades do not affect usability of storage cards at all, as far as I know.

In the following lists, if not denoted otherwise, the given configurations work.

BIOS version:

Sometimes, support of a card or card adapter depends on the BIOS version of the Palmtop. In order to find out your BIOS version, either reboot the Palmtop (Ctrl-Alt-Del) and observe the first few lines of text displayed on reboot. Or, if that's not possible (e.g. due to the Palmtop having a double speed upgrade and text on bootup is unreadable), use the DEBUG command in DOS in the following way:

  • Terminate the ApplicationManager: [Menu] [Application] [Terminate All] [OK]
  • At the command prompt type: debug then d F000:FF00 
  • Read the Version Number in the ASCII dump. 
  • To quit from debug, enter q [Enter]
  • To return from DOS type "200" [Enter] ...without parentheses or brackets... :)

 

Compact Flash cards:

You need a CF to PCMCIA adapter for CF cards, be sure to get the adapter for the correct type of CF (I or II).

 





Latest addition 2011-12-30 reported by a 200LX user:

Sandisk 2 GB and 4 GB SDCFJ CF II cards work, with Acecard - That's what I use.
You can't format them in the palmtop, though. I use a XP/USB card reader from the command line for that. You have to specify an allocation unit size which will result in =< 65535 AU.
In Windows, open a command prompt, then type FORMAT /? to get a list of parameters. Note the A:size options; you want FAT16 - For a 2 GB card use 32K, 4GB use 64K.



Card Palmtop Compatibility
brand capacity in MB Type
I=3mm
II=5mm
model# model BIOS ver. works with Doublespeed upgrade driver needed comments
A-1 Flash 256 Type I - 200LX 1.02A yes - -
Apacer 128 Type I - 200LX 1.01A no - only tested in doublespeed palmtop, doesn't work.
Canon 8 Type I FC-8M 200LX 1.02A yes - -
EagleTec 32 Type I - 200LX ? ? - Very power-hungry, crashes palmtop on write access when batteries get low. Not recommended.
Kingston Technology 64 Type I - 200LX 1.02A probably - -
Kingston Technology 128 Type I High Speed CF/128 9902366-001.A00 641603 200LX 1.02A some yes, some not. - Attention: Doesn't work with some double-speed palmtops!
Kingston Technology 256 Type I THNCF256MAA 200LX 1.02A yes - -
Kodak 20 Type I Sundisk SDP 5/3 0.6 200LX 1.02A probably - -
Lexar 16 Type I Marked CompactFlash USB Enabled 8x 16MB, P/N 2177, Rev A 100LX 1.03A ? acecard Card is USB enabled
Lexar 48 Type I CompactFlash 48MB 4X 200LX 1.02A yes - Card is USB enabled
Lexar 128 Type I CompactFlash 128MB 4X (or 12X), marked CF128-04-266 and USB Enabled, P/N 2175, Rev A 200LX 1.02A yes - Card is USB enabled
Memorex 64 Type I - 200LX 1.02A probably - -
PQI 32 Type I P/N FC032 200LX 1.01A - acecard problems reported, high power consumption, FAT problems, not recommended!, also strange that acecard driver is necessary.
PQI 64 Type I - 100LX/200LX/700LX 1.02A ? - reliability problems reported, not recommended!, also causes "card battery low" message in some cases. killmsg can avoid that. Relabeled e.g. as HAMA.
PQI 64 Type I P/N FC064, 5Q62D and 164822200007 200LX 1.02 yes acecard -
Pretec all Type I - 200LX all - - reliability problems reported, not recommended!
Ritdata 64 Type I - 200LX - ? on some 200LXs the acecard driver is needed Labeled ExtreMemory
Ritdata 256 Type I - 200LX - ? - Labeled ExtreMemory
Robanton 256 Type I? - 200LX - yes acecard -
Sandisk 8 Type I SDCFB 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended
Sandisk 15 Type I - 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended
Sandisk 30 Type I SDCFB 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended
Sandisk 64 Type I SDCFB 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended. Labeled "RCA"
Sandisk 80 Type I SDCFB 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended
Sandisk 128 Type I SDCFB 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended
Sandisk 160 Type I SDCFB 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended
Sandisk 160 Type II - 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended
Sandisk 192 Type I SDCFB 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended
Sandisk 256 Type I SDCFB AR0203NX China 200LX 1.02A probably - recommended
Sandisk 512 Type I SDCFB Copyright 99 AX0110ML USA 200LX 1.02A yes acecard recommended
Sandisk 1 GB Type I BB0206NK CHINA Copyright 99 200LX 1.02A yes acecard recommended; seems to work in some devices (MP3 players...) where the 512MB card fails
Sandisk 2 GB Type I SDCFB (not the 'ultra' version) 200LX 1.02A yes acecard recommended
Simple Technology 32 Type I - 200LX 1.02A yes - -
Simple Technology 48 Type I - 200LX 1.02A yes - -
Simple Technology 64 Type I markings 90000-00756-032 and 001002-FL1-001 200LX 1.02A yes - -
Simple Technology 96 Type I - 200LX 1.02A yes - -
Toshiba 64 Type I THNCF064MMA 200LX, 700LX ? ? - -
Toshiba 256 Type I THNCF256MAA 200LX 1.02A yes - Labeled Kingston Technology, "High speed"
Transcend 128 Type I - 200LX 1.01A yes - -
Twinmos Mediastore (TM) 256 Type I Ultra High Speed Serialno: 251M52069330136 P/N:FCF256S Made in Taiwan 200LX 1.02A yes - -
Verbatim 32 Type I 0441CT4E 200LX 1.01A probably - -
Verbatim 128 Type I 021711 200LX 1.02A yes - -

 

The following pictures (thanks to Radek Svagr!) show the inside of a 10MB Sandisk CF card:

 

 

ATA Flash cards (full-size PCMCIA flash cards):

These cards fit into the palmtop without an adapter.

 

Card Palmtop Compatibility
brand capacity in MB Type
I=3mm
II=5mm
model# model BIOS ver. works with Doublespeed upgrade driver needed comments
Epson 40 Type II Ref AD40155C007, ATA 412SD12, 1994 200LX 1.02A yes - -
HP 10.4 Type II Sundisk SDP-10 200LX 1.02A probably - Does not work with some newer laptops.
This is a relabeled Sundisk card, 12V
HP 5 Type I by Sundisk! 200LX 1.02A yes - This is a relabeled Sundisk card, 12V
Kingston 10 Type II - 200LX 1.02A probably - power-hungry! Causes 100LX to shut down!
Kingston 32 Type II DP-ATA/32 200LX 1.02A probably - For some reason it says that the cards capacity is 63266480 bytes, but the card is only 32MB!
Sandisk 175 Type II **A7131177A SDP5BH-175 200LX 1.02A yes - -
Sandisk 220 Type II SPD-3B 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended
Sandisk 256 Type II SPD-3B 200LX 1.02A yes - recommended
Sandisk 350 Type II SPD-3B 200LX 1.02A ? acecard -
Sandisk 1.2 GB Type II SPD-3B 200LX 1.02A ? acecard -
Simple Technology / SiliconTech 48 Type I SLATAFL48 100LX - ? acecard -
Simple Technology / SiliconTech 48 Type I SLATAFL48 200LX - yes - slightly faster than a Sandisk
Simple Technology 128 ? PN 90000-00753-109 200LX ? yes - -
Simple Technology 160 Type I STI-ATAFL/160 200LX 1.02A yes - -
Simple Technology / SiliconTech 448 Type I SLATAFL448 100LX/200LX - yes acecard -

Other card types (Memory Stick, MMC, SD...):

You need PCMCIA adapters for all the cards listed below.

 



2012-11-22: A user reported a standard microSD 2GB card (identified by Linux as Sandisk SU02G) to work very well without any driver using the Panasonic BN-SDAGP3 PCMCIA-to-SD adapter.

Card Palmtop Compatibility
brand capacity in MB card type model# model BIOS ver. works with Doublespeed upgrade driver needed comments
Sony 16 Memory Stick - 700LX - ? - works well with Sony MSAC-PC2 Stick-to-PCMCIA-Adaptor
EMTEC 32 MMC AA0010JC TAIWAN (written on the backside) 200LX - yes - A MMC/SD-PCMCIA adapter is needed. LXCIC reports: PCMCIA ADAPTER So the adapter is recognized by LXCIC rather than the card, which explains, why the adapter is not cheap (~$40 on ebay). It seems to have the controller built in. The card powers down by itself, as reported by LXCIC. I had no success with a SD (Secure Digital) card, which has the same form factor as the MMC.
ExtreMemory 64 MMC AB0206LV TAIWAN (written on the backside) 200LX - yes - A MMC/SD-PCMCIA adapter is needed. I use an adapter labeled "FREITAG Electronic" which is made only for MMC cards. It works flawlessly. LXCIC reports the adapter to be a "Panasonic ATA BN-MMAA 1.10".
Infineon 128 MMC EG85918 a0229KKO 200LX 1.02A yes - A MMC/SD-PCMCIA adapter is needed. I use an adapter labeled "FREITAG Electronic" which is made only for MMC cards. It works flawlessly. LXCIC reports the adapter to be a "Panasonic ATA BN-MMAA 1.10".
Sandisk 512 MicroSD SDQCJP-512 AX05206CB 200LX 1.02A yes - SanDisk microSD/TransFlash Adapter 2006-12-15A MADE IN CHINA
Minolta CF Card Adapter SD-CF1
SanDisk CompactFlash PC Card Adapter
Sandisk 2GB MicroSD   200LX 1.02A, 1.01A (200LX), 1.06EB (700LX) yes -  

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Daniel Hertrich